Romanian point lace rick rack cord

 I am using size 15 thread sissy and a size 12 hook
color and dye lots for my reference for latter
art (4
farbe 325
partie 01

I am also using a white thread for the tutorial but I and using the dark navy for a project


this cord only unravels in one direction so you have to make the exact amount you need for each spot

1. chain 3
2. in 2nd ch make sc, in next ch make 2 sc, ch 1 turn work
3. * 1 sc in first sc, 3 sc in 2nd sc, ch 1 turn work**... repeat to desired length

step 1

step 2

turn

step3

repeat to desired length

etc.etc. etc.

if you want more Romanian point lace cord patterns free look on the left side bar under rpl cord that will take you to them and tutorials on sewing cords together and unraveling them not just making them

Ravelry patterns now free

For those of you on Ralvelry  I have made all my patterns there free.  There are some new laws going into effect that affect pdfs.  I just do not care to deal with the European tax system.  That includes my Irish Crochet hat


If you like my blog and the free patterns and tutorials and want to say thank you  I have a wish list on ravelry of patterns (click here) I would like to make.  Thank you in advance for being kind and saying thank you back.

Love Sunshine

yellow sweater

  A few years back a made a yellow caplet that I gave to my sister in law as a gift.  Posts  of that previous item are here and here .  Modifications I made are below in this post

I have found the remainder of that cone of yarn not sure I have enough for the project I have in mind but i am giving it a shot any way.  I am using the same pattern with mods.  I am stopping the collar at the button band and joining in the round.  And then working in the round for the body following the pattern minus the button band again .  Till i get to the point where I am under the under arm and forming the sleeves this way .  Then continuing on with the rest of the sweater just worked straight.  This is still a work in progress it will get longer just not there yet.  Yes I do plan to wear a shirt under this to make it opaque not see through around the collar area.   Been away with family wedding and back to school  Now I am in the beginning parts of costuming the sound of music wish me luck.

free pattern grandma's a touch of south west afghan

This is one of three afghans that I received for my wedding many years ago.  This one is from my husbands grandmother on his mother's side.  This won her 1st place at the Lincoln County Fair in Nevada one year.

Make starting chain as long as you wish to make the afghan start with a tail and leave a tail at the end of every row when you cut the yarn at the end of every row.

below is the rest of the pattern pretty simple really

leave tail, chain to desired length of afghan, leave tail again.   Leave a tail at the  beginning and end of each row so every row is cut but you do not have to weave in any ends this makes it go faster than you think it will.  All rows are worked in one direction all stitches are sc stitches except the first chain row.  The afghan should be heavily  blocked afterward as it is hard to see in the original but it is sort of parallelogram.  If you decide you do not like blocking and want an easier way to fix that is to do the reverse direction every row ( ie turn your work) which is not how grandma did it but it is how I would do it if I made one  to make it square.

• edging: start with  7 rows brown edge
• Row a: 1 row white
• Row b: * 1 row black
• Rows c, d, e:     3 rows 1color 
• (changing color after each repeat)
• Rows f,g, h,: 3 rows variegate ( use the same variate for all three rows)
• (matching to color of this repeat or a striking contrast color of this repeat)
• repeat  rows c,d, e,  with same color as use last
• repeat row b
• repeat row a*
• repeat from * to * to desired length minus the width of the brown edge
• repeat  edging

to finish
Tie yarn together in groups of three to make fringe (except the first group will be four becasue of the starting chain).

Original was done in wool and felted a little.

Also the original was also mirrored from side.  But if you have more odd scrapes you can skip that but if you want a more south western look I do recommend mirroring the stripes from one side to the next.

If you like my blog and the free patterns and tutorials and want to say thank you I have a wish list on ravelry of patterns I would like to make.
Thank you in advance for being kind and
saying thank you back.

Love Sunshine But please do not feel like you have to

Lace edging free pattern

My friend and neighbor JoDee had this piece of antique lace.  She knows I like all things handmade and vintage so she brought it over for me to see it.   She was kind and let me borrow it for a few months until I had time to sit down and copy it.   She had a few yards of it and she plans on sewing it to a dress.   I figured it was a pretty simple pattern but elegant so I wanted to copy it and figured others might like it too.

This is my version of what I saw in the antique lace.
I am using size 30 thread in this tutorial and a size 14 steel hook ( I was matching original work)

But any size thread/yarn will work with its matching hook size

shell =(3dc, chain 2, 3 dc in space)
large shell = (3dc, chain 2, 3 dc,chain 2, 3 dc in space)

chain 50 also known as foundation chain

1. Row 1(also known as foundation row in this patterns repeats): dc in 4th stitch from hook ( skip stitches count as first dc), chain 2, skip 2 stitches, dc in the next 5 stitches, chain 4, skip 4 stitches, (dc in the next 3 stitches, chain 2,dc in the next 3 stitches)foundation shell made,ch4, skip 4 stitches sc in next stitch, ch 3, skip 2 stitch , sc in next stitch, chain 4, skip 4 stitches, make foundation shell over next 6 stitches, ch 3 turn work 
1. note: ignore ( shell stitches in  photo in that the first go round I tried cluster stitches at later revisions I changed that as it did not look right do as it reads above)
2.  
3.  Here is a later picture version2.   This photo that is correct for the starting row and chain.  But since that first was going to be in all the photos I wanted you to know why it was different and what it should look like
1. 
2. Row 2: make shell in shell ( 3dc, chain 2, 3dc), chain 4, 2dc in chain 3 space, chain 4, shell in shell, chain 4, 1dc in each of the next 5 dc, chain 2, 1dc in each of the next 2 dc,turn work
1. 
3. Row 3: chain 3 (counts as first dc), dc in the 2nd dc of previous round, chain 2, 1dc in each of the next 5 dc, chain 4, shell in shell,chain, 3 dc in chain 4, chain 2, 3 dc in chain 4, chain 1, shell in shell,chain 4, shell in turning chain at end of the foundation row, chain 4, skip 4 stitches on foundation chain, sc into next stitch chain 4 turn work
1. 
4. Row 4: large shell in shell, chain 4, 1dc in each of the next 3 dc, shell in shell, chain 4, 2 dc in chain 2 space, chain 4, shell in shell, chain 4,1dc in each of the next 5 dc, chain 2, 1dc in each of the next 2 dc,turn work.
1. 
5. Row 5:   chain 3 (counts as first dc), dc in the 2nd dc of previous round, chain 2, 1dc in each of the next 5 dc, chain 4, shell in shell,chain4, sc in chain 4, chain 2,  1 sc in chain 4, chain 4, shell in shell,1 dc in each of the next 6 stitches,  chain 4, shell in shell chain 2 shell in shell chain 4, skip  4 stitches on foundation chain, sc into next stitch ( should be the last one on the foundation chain, chain 4 turn work
1. 
6. Row 6: in first shell do (2dc chain2)4 x 2 dc in same shell, chain 4, in second shell do (2dc chain2)4 x 2 dc in same shell,chain 4, 1dc in each of the next 9 dc, shell in shell, chain 4, 2 dc in chain 2 space, chain 4, shell in shell, chain 4,1dc in each of the next 5 dc, chain 2, 1dc in each of the next 2 dc,turn work.
1. mark the 1st dc in the serious of 9 and mark the 6th dc in the serious of 9 as your new foundation chain these will be the two posts you go into when it tells you to skip 4 stitches on the foundation row and sc into a particular stitch these are those 2 stitches.
2.  
7.  Row 7(also known as foundation row in this patterns repeats): chain 3, dc in 4th stitch from hook ( skip stitches count as first dc), chain 2, skip 2 stitches, dc in the next 5 stitches, chain 4, skip 4 stitches, shell in shell,ch4,  sc in chain 4 space, ch 3,  sc in chain 4 space, chain 4, shell in shell,  ch 3 turn work 
1. repeat rows 2 through 7 to desired length

If you find a mistake please leave a note in the comments area so that I might fix it thank you for helping me and other crocheters to have the pattern correct.

**If you like my blog and the free patterns and tutorials and want to say thank you
I have a wish list on ravelry of patterns I would like to make. 
Thank you in advance for being kind and
saying thank you back.

Love Sunshine
But please do not feel like you have to**

In want of a cameo... free necklace pattern

I have loved cameos since I was a little girl.  My Vova (grandmother)wore the first one I ever saw.  I have loved them ever since.  Several people in my life have owned cameos the old style hand carved.  I always admired those and loved them.  Recently several relatives passed and I wanted the cameo's to remember them by but others did as well so I passed on all of them.  A friend of mine was talking to me and knew my love of them and the cameos she gave me one her husband had given to her before they got married given to her between 45 and 50 years ago (while dating before they got married)the type I love and are hand carved. See left photo to see how special it is a very pretty cream colored cameo with a amber background. This is now a treasured possession of mine from a friend of over 13 years who loved me enough to give what should be a family heirloom in her family to me.  That being said I am nervous to wear it as the clasp is weak and has fallen from my clothes a few times so now it sits where I can admire it and awaits me taking  it to a jeweler so I can wear it and not have fear of losing such a precious memento.



While at a craft store a few weeks ago I saw some modern cheep versions of the old hand-carved beauties.  Figured I could make something simple I could wear and not be afraid to lose.  So two purchase with purple accents and one black and white one.  All3  less than 9 dollars total so no big loss if they fall from me.  I gathered a few supplies yesterday and set to work making one of them wearable.

So I gathered the supplies I had around the house which are comprised of little bits of this and that.

Supplies

1. the cameo's 
1. decided to 1 of the antique silver looking ones with purple accents
2. seed beads
1.  1 jar of size 11 antique silver in color
3. size 30 antique crochet thread 
1. variegated purple
4. cabone rings
1. two sizes see picture for sizing 8 small 6 larger
2. 
5. 1 closure 
1.  a sweater clasp instead of a necklace closure as I thought it was pretty and would work
6. crochet hook
1. size 14 steel
7. beading thread 
1. to transfer beads from needle to crochet thread 
8. beading needle
1. to string beads onto 1 end of beading thread while other end is knotted to the crochet thread to transfer beads

String beads onto thread  ( I used 36 per little ring and 60 for the large rings for a total of 648 ) also string the cameo on my connector did not have an opening to attach afterward and I did not want to use jump rings so it had to be strung on now which does cause some issues that I will  go into later.

if you need a longer necklace add more cabone rings I wanted mine between 13 and 14 inches so that is what this is as written lay out and measure all parts so you will know ruffly what you need.

1. lay out necklace 1 clasp at each end with cabone rings alternating little big with two little cabone rings in the center next to each other.
2. make sure that cameo is facing right side before you start to work same direction as clasps
3. attach crochet thread to hook and crochet 3 sc into one clasp end
4. 2 sc into first small cabone ring ,* slide 3 beads and sc into ring again, 2 sc crochet no beads* repeat 6 times make sure to end with 2 sc
5. 2 sc into first large cabone ring ,* slide 3 beads and sc into ring again, 2 sc crochet no beads* repeat 10 times make sure to end with 2 sc
6. continue int his manner till you get to the two small rings front and center on the necklace do the first ring as  step 4 chain 3
7. slip cameo into place ( this part take some finagling on hook needle from thread and place on other side of cameo and pull thread loop through center of cameo continue steps 4 -5 ending with 4
8. chain 5 if needed to get to a size to fit nice around neck and to make easier to attach to the clasp and weave in ends  3 sc into other clasp connection cut and finish thread.
9. weave thread back through the center of the cameo starting from the side where you started the necklace and end where you just cut thread
10. repeat step three attaching to the second clasp
11. 6-8 sc over chain
1. 
12. repeat steps 4 -7 ending with 3 sc into the center of the last clasp and working 4 sc over the chains under the cameo work 2 before cameo and 2 after cameo after you have pulled your thread through the loop of the cameo.  Also place 2 sc over area between all  rings.

Cut and weave all tail ends end and wear
was a pretty fast project to make the only slow part was stringing the beads.  which can go faster if you have a bead spinner.

If I did this again I would string on 1512 and slide 7 beads each time instead of three so the beads don't shimmy so much in place.

also can be used as a bracelet with slight modification with smaller cameo and less cabone rings ( I would use a different clasp then a toggle would be best for a bracelet)

if you look at the clasp I used I could put a safely chain on this and so could you on bracelet or necklace by going through those extra rings on it that where originally meant to be used to sew it on to a sweater


**If you like my blog and the free patterns and tutorials and want to say thank you I have a wish list on ravelry of patterns I would like to make.
Thank you in advance for being kind and
saying thank you back.

Love Sunshine But please do not feel like you have to**

Rose Oya Pattern free

I am using size 30 crochet cotton for mine on a simple black organza scarf that belonged to my grandmother.  Traditionally this would be done with either silk, 100 % polyester thread or 100% nylon thread. If using thread just hold enough strands together to get to the thickness of size 30 crochet thread as it is hard in the USA to find the correct supplies to do it traditionally if you are lucky enough to know where to get the correct supplies please leave a comment/ message here so others can do it that way thank you.

Free pattern in the read more section


**If you like my blog and the free patterns and tutorials and want to say thank you
I have a wish list on ravelry of patterns I would like to make. 
Thank you in advance for being kind and
saying thank you back.

Love Sunshine
But please do not feel like you have to**

Supplies

• 2 colors size 30 thread
• 1 green for stems and leaves
• 1 color for roses

• crochet hook size 14 steel crochet hook
• 1 nice scarf to edge (mine was my grandmothers)

Terms

• sc =single crochet
• dc =double crochet
• s.k.= solomon's knot
• sp/ sps = space / spaces
• slst = slip stitch
• ch = chain
• sk = skip

First start with roses make as many as you think you will need to go around the scarf make a few extra encase you miscalculate.  You can use the extra on a bracelet, a set of dangle ear rings, as embellishments of other projects.  You could also save them and as you other projects save all the left overs and make one with lots of colors of roses.  If you don't make enough you will just have to make a few more at the end and add them in. either way works.   Nice travel project as the roses do not take long to make and take almost no thread to make them either.  My  repeat is about 2 inches (do a swatch so you know your repeat)  I will be expecting 13 per side on mine so I will make 54 roses with 2 extra so 56.  Work all chains tight you want your stitches compacted together.

1. ch 10 close ring with slst
1. 
2. (center of rose)ch 3 and place 24  dc into the ring join with slst to the top ch.
1. 
3. (1st petal)chain 10, sc into the 9th dc from hook ch 3 turn, place 20 dc into the ch sp just made, ch 3,  slst  into the same sp as the dc's
1. 
4. (2nd petal) ch 10, sc into the 9th dc from hook (opposite the first one) ch 3 turn, place 20 dc into the ch sp just made,  slst  into the into top of the ch 3 from petal 1
1. 
5. (3rd petal or leaf if you want to change color) ch 10, sc into the 12th dc from hook ch 3, turn, place 20 dc into the ch sp just made, ch 3,  slst  into the same sp as the dc's
1. 
6. (4th petal) ch 10, sc into the 12th dc from hook (opposite the first one) ch 3 turn, place 20 dc into the ch sp just made,  slst  into the top of the ch 3 from leaf 3
1. 

you can repeat row 5 and 6 again but green if you want to add leaves or you  can make row 5 and 6 green if you want a smaller rose with leaves or leave the leaves of entirely like mine. or sk row 5 and 6 and just have  a small rose


Now go to green (if you have questions look below at images they are in order)

1. join thread to fabric *1sc, ch 3  (creates ch 3 sp),* repeat as many times as need to go around scarf end slst into 1st sc, and into next ch 3 sp
1.  
2.  sc in sp, 2 s.k.,sk 2 sps, sc in next space, * ch 6 (turning work), slst into back of last sc made ,(turn work back) ch 4 slst into 3rd ch, 2dc in ch6 sp,ch3, sc into ch6 sp, 1 s.k., sc into base of a rose, s.k., sc into ch 6 sp, ch 3, 2 dc into ch6 sp, ch1, sc into top of last dc made,ch 3,sc into ch 6 sp, slst into sc at base of ch6 sp, (2 s.k., sk 2 ch 3 sp, sc into next ch3 sp)3x total* repeat around entire scarf end with s.k and a slst into the top of the first sc.  cut and finish threads  if using polyester or nylon that means burning the tips of the thread.  If using cotton weave in tails.
1. 
2.