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Tuesday, July 20, 2010

HS101: French Seams

stitch length of 2
Stitch width of 0

Use DMC heirloom sewing machine thread when doing this for real and needle size#60, #65 or #70.

For the sample I will just be using normal sewing thread so you can see it easy in the photos and it will be a contrasting color for the same reason. But I will show samples at the end with the correct thread used so you can see how invisible it is with the correct thread which is thinner and matches the fabric and lace.

(UPDATE: there was some good questions in the first comment please read it and the second comment where I answer it for more information on samples and where to get supplies if you do not have a local source)

Cut 2 pieces of 100% cotton Batiste that are about 3 by 6 inches  you don't need big pieces to test on

Prep fabric
Starch (using clean iron, and clean board, also use spray starch)

  1. With wrong sides together.  Straight stitch seam taking up 1/2 of your seam allowance.  ( most seams in heirloom sewing are 1/2 inch for french seams so this would be about 1/4 inch from edge of fabric)
    • fabric wrong sides together
  2. Trim edges very,very close to the stitching.  ( this is usually trimmed to about 1/8 inch) 
  3. trim
  4. Turn right sides together and press seam flat (using clean iron and clean board)
    • iron fold over and sew again
  5. Keeping right sides together straight stitch again taking up the rest of your seam allowance.  (once again this seam should be about 1/4 of an inch).  None of the first seams frayed edges should be visible from the right side of the item if they are you did not trim correctly or did two small of a seam the second time.  
    • finish
  with correct threadcloseup with correct thread

Note if you are using normal seam allowance which are 5/8 of an inch use the half rule of thumb.

      Heirloom Sewing . Get yours at bighugelabs.com


    1. Holy smokes that was fast!! I was looking for items today and was having a little trouble identifying laces. Any suggestions I am dealing with Fabricland retail outlet. I came back to research them as staff was no help.

      I do not have everything so I am hoping this will stay posted as I dangle behind LOL Cinnamongirl/Carrie

      I do have a question about the post though. Does this mean that it is two samplers for your binder?

    2. one is fine but mine actually does have two samples for every technique. The ones with the colored thread are a third set so I am not terribly interested in using that much fabric again to make a third set. Especially since I already have two. But each page should have its own set and each page should have the width and length of stitches used and type of needle if that is unique link a wing needle our double needle and so on all this should be written on a piece of paper and the name of the technique. Then the sample placed in the view sheet with the notes that way you know exactly which notes go to which technique. If you make a single sampler like the one that seems to be forming with these tutorial in time you will not know which technique on the sampler is being shown for a certain page of your book you should have a separate sample for each tutorial and page in your book (page = view sheet). I hope that all made since

      There are about 10 or 12 more tutorials. I have a hike today so I probably will not be making any today. I may do a series on piping too as they are used a lot too but haven't decided on that yet I may also do some embroidery and the group on flicker has some links to drawn thread work,I may also show how to do fagoting. I figured this series is a great starting point for people. But I can always add more to it later

      An on line source here is one


      They have all the supplies you will need fabric and lace wise and they even have notions so they should cover the whole thing do not spend mass amounts of money these are just little swatches mine are about 3 inches long when I cut the lace to give you an idea. I have never purchased from this company a blog reader recommended them 2 weeks ago they look like an ok site with lots of variety


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