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Saturday, August 14, 2010

HS101: Pintucks

#50 thread heirloom thread
1.6/70 twin needle
twin needle

7 grove or 5 grove pintuck foot (I do not own a 7 groove foot wish I did)
5 grove pintuck footsee 5 groves

I am using the wrong thread in the tutorial it is so you can see it.  Because of its thickness it doesn't make pin-tucks as well as it would with heirloom thread.  But you will see good examples at the end of the post.

L 2.5
  • Place twin needle in machine and attach grooved pintuck foot
    • twin needle with pintucks
    • When using a twin needle you need to also have two threads of course feedinging into the needles here I have used two colors so you can see them in the photos to come.
      • double threads for a twin needle
  • adjust tension as needed (the bottom tension will need to be a little tighter than normal to pull the two sides of the pin-tuck together)
  • pull a thread
    • pull thread
  • the first pintuck is along the pulled thread hold fabric tight in front an back of the needle. Line up the left needle with the pulled thread line so the pulled thread is hidden and reinforced by this thread.
  • To line up future pin-tucks place the last pin-tuck made into the out-most groove of the pin-tuck foot.  While watching the outside groove with the last pin-tuck in it stitch the next one and continue doing this till you have all made that you need.  The more groves you have your foot the wider you can place the pin-tucks from one another.  You can place them in other groves if you desire them to be closer.  I have not ironed these pin-tucks in this photo so things look a little way but if you notice the threads I have removed you can see the stitches are straight even out a few rows.
    • line up pintuck with edge grove
    • lined up rows
    showing the two sets of holes formed by twin needle
  • leave the tails long so you can use a needle and pull them to the back of the work and make a knot to hold the pin-tucks secure.
    • threads to finish
The photo above and the ones below are from a dress I am making that is full of pin-tucks.
rows of pintucksyoke frontsleeve

On a side note you can make your first line in other ways.  Such as using  a wash out marker and a ruler to mark your first line ( it will not be on the straight of grain thought) and then stitch on this line use heirloom sewing thread size 80 to stitch a straight stitch on the marked line them switch to twin needle and size 50 thread for pintucks.

One other way is to iron in a crease and use that as your guide same thing is true for this as the last it will not be on the straight of grain.  You can do these two other methods but they are not the straight of grain methods nor are they the traditional methods.

  Heirloom Sewing . Get yours at bighugelabs.com

1 comment:

  1. Very good points about the method to make the first line being batter if it's straight with the grain. Especially for something that has parallel lines--it will be easy to tell if they're off!
    Pin-tucks sound sooo much easier now!

    By-the-way, the dress you showed looks amazing so far!


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